The starter cap is mounted and the harness complete. The motor still has a drain hole at the bottom, but having these two seals should reduce the risk of crap getting washed into the bearings. I also glued a seal to the output side of the condenser fan. I glued a cap over the unused motor end/bearing. Its 70% zinc, and should extend their life under a vehicle. I opted to hit all the copper lines with some cold galvanizing spray. Still waiting on some small ID pipe insulation. I've also come across this flexible line product which might be applicable to these kinds of installs, 36" and 72" lengths available, it could be part of a solution to get through some of the difficult areas: Those quick connect couplings look pretty cool, I will need to look into those some more. Sticker on the side lists it as 8.78A with a LRA (Locked Rotor Amps) of 18A I haven't yet put it on my Kill-A-Watt to try to measure startup current, but I imagine it won't be too bad compared to conventional compressors. It is darn quiet if you care about that sort of thing, I myself prefer the white noise when sleeping so it's not as a big factor to me, but it will be nice during the day when taking a phone call. I have been testing one as an actual window unit, and I've been impressed so far. It's also an inverter unit so it should be both pretty efficient, and run with variable speed rather than simply on/off which should mean less power draw without the compressor kicking on/off repeatedly. Drive Wheel Release Allows unit movement without engine running.Since it's already almost a split unit it should be a bit easier with regard to dealing with the fans.PTO Engagement Electromagnetic 105-ft-lb clutch.ROPS Optional Rigid ROPS with seat belt and latch.Safety Package Operator Presence Controls (OPC) and drive system interlock.
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